Early Morning Shooting In Monument Valley’s Backcountry

Sunrise at Totem Pole and Yei Bi Chei, Monument Valley - One must have a Navajo guide to gain access to this scene for photography.

There we were, a fellow photographer (also from Los Angeles) and myself, at 5:40 in the morning one day in April 2009, waiting in the lobby of Monument Valley’s View Hotel. The native Navajo music playing over the lobby’s speakers filled the empty hotel lobby, and my fellow photographer and myself talked about what to expect as were going to go out into Monument Valley’s backcountry for four hours of early morning shooting. Very few people have access to Monument Valley the way we were about to have access to it in just a few short minutes that morning.

It was still dark and cold outside. At exactly 6:00 a.m., the bright headlights from Tom Phillips’ 4×4 SUV appeared within view through the hotel lobby’s doors. The legendary Navajo guide, Tom Phillips, who had led some of the best photographers around into Monument Valley’s backcountry to photograph its splendor had arrived, and with a quick “let’s go” we were off.

As we descended into the valley, Tom spoke about the history of Monument Valley, and told stories about the valley and its people. In particular, he spoke about the famous Navajo Code Talkers, bilingual Navajo speakers recruited during World War II to aid in the transmission of secret tactical messages. We passed by several of Monument Valley’s famous buttes and rock formations, including the Three Sisters. Light from the still present moon was the only light source illiminating these formations in the darkness.

Tom knew where to take us to get the best photos that morning. He knew exactly where to be and at what time.

He stopped his SUV in what seemed like out in the middle of the desert. It was still extremely cold and windy outside when my fellow photographer and I unloaded our photo gear out of Tom’s SUV. Tom led us out much further away, and told us to set up our cameras and tripods in a clearing on the desert floor.

We were about to photograph Totem Pole and Yei Bi Chei, at sunrise. According to Tom, we had only a few minutes to prepare for the sun to peak behind the rock formations. Time was of the essence.

iPhone shot of waiting for the sun to peak at Totem Pole and Yei Bi Chei

The resulting shot was the one that appears at the beginning of this blog post. We snapped away, and meanwhile, Tom was already thinking about the next destination. He yelled at us as he packed up for the walk back to his SUV, “you’re wasting your time!” Time was again, of the essence. With that, my fellow photographer and I also packed up.

The next destination was around the backside of Totem Pole and Yei Bi Chei, Monument Valley’s famous sand dunes. Upon arrival, Tom parked his SUV on high ground in the desert (so we could see it easily on the way back), and led us to a place where we could set up our tripods. There were many places to set up, and many different photo compositions were possible. I worked the area.

iPhone shot of setting up to photograph Monument Valley's sand dunes

I finally found a location and composition that I liked, and went for it.

Sand Dunes Near Totem Pole, Monument Valley

After the sand dunes, Tom took us to a number of different locations. The sun was very much out now, and it was not longer as cold as it had been earlier that morning. Ear of the Wind arch and some miscellaneous rocks with some petroglyphs were some of the highlights.

Ear of the Wind, Monument Valley

Monument Valley Petroglyph

Our four hours of early morning photography were drawing to a close. My fellow photographer was driving to Flagstaff that morning to catch a flight back to Los Angeles. Meanwhile, I still had two full days in Monument Valley. Tom Phillips and I discussed the possibility about taking me out at 3 p.m. that afternoon for some afternoon shooting. He mentioned that there was a possibility of a very strong sandstorm that afternoon, and we decided that it would be best to “play it by ear.” I was to meet him in the lobby of the View Hotel a 3 p.m. that afternoon and we would decide things from there. He made recommendations about other sights to photograph in the area between now and 3 p.m. that afternoon. I took notes. He dropped us off at the View Hotel, and I enjoyed a fabulous breakfast in the hotel’s restaurant. It was a very productive morning of shooting.

Tip: Most of the interesting parts of Monument Valley (ancient ruins, petroglyphs, beautiful arches, etc…) are restricted to the general public, and you need a Navajo guide to access them.  I came here to do only photography, so I charted Tom Phillips, who is well known, very knowledgeable, and has worked with many of the finest photographers around. While Tom works with photographers, and is typically well-booked, there are many guides available at the Visitor Center booth. More information is also available inside the Visitor Center and at the front desk of the View Hotel. Please be sure to tip your guide well. Invest in a guide to get the most out of your Monument Valley experience.

TO BE CONTINUED…

Early Morning in Monument Valley's Backcountry

Disclaimer: Monument Valley is a very rich place in terms of things to see and do. My blog postings related to Monument Valley are not intended to be a substitute for one’s own thorough travel research, but rather a “travelogue” of my experience with visiting and photographing Monument Valley, in order to provide some ideas and insights to others. Many ways to experience Monument Valley exist.

Mitten Sunset (and Shadow), Monument Valley

Monument Valley is one of my most favorite places on this planet.  It is quite a feat to find the words to appropriately describe this location, but in the next couple of blog postings, I am going to give it a shot. Few landscapes in the world come close to paralleling the mystical Monument Valley in terms of color, majesty and magic. It is truly an epic area, and a visit to this remote part of the American Southwest, near the Four Corners region, will never be forgotten.

You have to be crazy enough to come here – The mileages are staggering:
160 or so miles from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon
175 miles from Flagstaff, Arizona
318 miles from Phoenix, Arizona
401 miles from Las Vegas, Nevada
410 miles from Tucson, Arizona

Any other major city in the area that I missed? You get my point?
But those who make the long drive to the Navajo Indian Reservation (where Monument Valley is located and is administered under the tribe’s Parks and Recreation Department) will be rewarded with a landscape and experience that is undoubtedly unique.

When I visited Monument Valley in Spring 2009, I came from Page, Arizona, where I had just photographed Upper Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend. I knew that I was getting close to Monument Valley when I stared out of my car’s window and saw the massive buttes and mesas appearing strikingly from out of nowhere and towering high above the ground. The weather in this part of the Southwest can be fickle and change in an instant. As I approached Agatha Peak (or El Capitan), I was just starting to get caught in a sudden snowstorm, while on my left, I experienced a gorgeous Southwestern sunset.

Mother Nature's Color Palette, North of Kayenta, AZ, on the approach to Monument Valley

I’ve heard of others describing the experience of being caught in one of the Southwest’s legendary and dramatic thunderstorms – an awesome light display that lights up the whole desert put on by Mother Nature to declare her power.

Upon arriving inside Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park and settling into my room at the View Hotel, I felt as if I had just stepped into a movie. In fact, many movies, music videos, and television commercials have been filmed here over the years, including some westerns directed by John Ford. Despite the fact that Monument Valley has been featured in many forms of media, the location is not a sound stage – it is very real. The sights and vistas here represent some of the finest landscape images of the rugged West, which have been deeply engrained in the American psyche for years.  Say “American West,” and most likely, some images from Monument Valley come up.

Left Mitten, Monument Valley

Monument Valley is very rugged, so be prepared for it. There is a fine red dust in the air and all over the place that permeates everything, and it will eventually find its way onto your clothes and belongings.

The area near the new View Hotel, which opened in December 2008, is the centerpiece of tourism in the park. In addition to the View Hotel, there is a restaurant, an extensive gift shop, and a small convenience store/stand. In a future blog posting, I plan to talk about the View Hotel.  Near the hotel is also a Visitor Center, which was under renovation at the time of my visit, but I believe it is adjacent to the gift shop. Outside the Visitor Center is a small dirt lot, where one can find and charter a tour to explore Monument Valley. Just look for the small booth in the lot to ask for more information, including costs.

Also near the Visitor Center are two rather large boulders which stick out like bumps.  This is the site where Ansel Adams photographed his famous image of Monument Valley, with the three buttes in the background, in 1958.

Things really haven't changed much since Ansel Adams took his famous photograph of Monument Valley in 1958. Above is my version, shot from the same tripod location.

This area around the Visitor Center and the View Hotel is also probably the best area to catch the sunrise in the morning, unless you have a guide which may be able to grant you access to the interior of Monument Valley before the gates open in the morning (more about this in the next blog post).

In my next blog post related to Monument Valley, I will talk about some of the options that one has in order to explore the valley and what it has to offer. Hint: the best way to tour Monument Valley is to invest in and charter a guide.

TO BE CONTINUED…

Few experiences are as unreal and incredible as a Monument Valley sunrise. Taken from the balcony of my room at the View Hotel.

Disclaimer: Monument Valley is a very rich place in terms of things to see and do. My blog postings related to Monument Valley are not intended to be a substitute for one’s own thorough travel research, but rather a “travelogue” of my experience with visiting and photographing Monument Valley, in order to provide some ideas and insights to others. Many ways to experience Monument Valley exist.

Horseshoe Bend in Arizona, USA

The landscape of the American Southwest abounds with crazy and whimsical rock and geologic formations. There are rocks that look like pancakes (or UFO saucers), a Mexican sombrero, mittens, a mother with her child, and more. There is even a geologic formation just north of the Mexican hat that resembles a long gooseneck, scrunched up in a very small area.

Needless to say, they are very interesting to look at. One of my favorite geologic formations is located about four miles south of Page, Arizona. It is a horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River, appropriately named Horseshoe Bend.  It is just simply amazing and something that has to be experienced in person.

From the center of Page, AZ, the Horseshoe Bend is relatively easy to reach. From Page, travel about four miles south on Highway 89 until you reach the entrance to the small dirt parking area for Horseshoe Bend on your right.  It is marked with a sign.

GPS Coordinates for Horseshoe Bend: N 36° 52.599′, W 111° 30.173′ (Parking lot); N 36° 52.765′, W 111° 30.637′ (General overlook area)

Horseshoe Bend Overlook trailhead

From the parking area, it is about a 3/4 mile hike to the viewpoint.  The trail starts from the parking lot with a ascend up a small hill, then a descend into the desert. The rest of the trail is relatively flat, but sandy and with a few curves and ups/downs, as it makes its way to the overlook.  The Horseshoe Bend comes into view as you approach the overlook. You can’t miss it.

Approaching Horseshoe Bend

Once you reach Horseshoe Bend, you come to realize that the scale of the bend is massive, beyond proportions, and standing there at the edge of the cliff, you just feel completely miniscule in the world.  You feel like a tiny ant. No picture can do it justice. It looks small when you see it in a book or photograph, but when you are viewing it in person, you come to realize just how huge this bend is. Horseshoe Bend is something that must be experienced in person.

Take your time, and take it all in.  Look over the cliff, and you see the boats and rafts floating down the Colorado River as little specks (seriously!).  It’s just that phenomenal, from the view to the feelings and sensations.

This place is truly scary and not a place for anybody who is scared of heights.  You can’t really stand at the edge, but rather get down on your stomach and look over the edge while lying down.  It’s hard to describe.  But the vertigo factor here is high.  Try to stand at the edge of the cliff and you’ll see what I mean.  The wind and sand blowing against your body just adds to the overpowering sensation. You have to be really, really careful here.  It’s about a 1,000 sheer foot drop to the Colorado River below, and there are absolutely no guard rails, wind strong, the terrain ragged and strenuous around the very edge.  Hold on to those little ones.

The rugged edge of the cliff overlooking Horseshoe Bend

Due to the immensity of Horseshoe Bend, it is not possible to get the entire bend in one frame using a standard point and shoot camera, unless you use a stitching method.  It is best to shoot Horseshoe Bend with a professional DLSR (preferably full-frame) to take a proper image, and the widest lens that you got – we’re talking 15mm (even 14mm or fish-eye) here (on a 35mm scale). You might be able to get away with 24mm, but probably no more.

To take a picture here, I’d recommend mounting your camera on a tripod, lying down on your stomach at the very edge, and (believe it or not) dangling your tripod with camera attached over the edge, kind of like a fishing pole. Use a cable release to trip the shutter. It worked very well for me.

Some other miscellaneous photography tips:

• The best time to photograph Horseshoe Bend is late morning to early noon, when the sun is behind you. In the afternoon the sun will be directly in front of you.
• Consider using a polarizer to remove any haze and reflection.
• HDR or blending multiple exposures in post-processing would work here if there are strong contrasts between different elements of the scene.
• Leave all the multiple lenses and other gadgets in your car back at the trailhead. Seriously, the only things you need here are your camera and your widest lens. And maybe your tripod and cable release (if you want to try my “fishing pole” method).

Horseshoe Bend is well worth visiting if you’re ever in the Page, AZ/Lake Powell Area. While you’re in the area, don’t forget to visit the other popular photography hotspot in the area – the slot canyons at Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon.

Horseshoe Bend as seen on Google Maps Satellite View

Early Morning at Schwabacher Landing - Summer

As I was browsing in Grand Teton National Park’s state-of-the-art Main Visitor Center in Moose (formally named the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center) one day, I caught a few minutes of a ranger presentation being given that highlighted the main features of the park. When the ranger got to talking about Schwabacher Landing (one of my favorite areas in the park), he mentioned that is one of the most often photographed locations in the world. Looking at an image taken at this location, it is very easy to see why. With the perfectly positioned trees and Teton range in the background, as well as a reflection that is cast in a beaver pond, the landscape lends itself quite nicely for photography. Many photographers have taken advantage of the perfectly positioned elements and as a result have photographed the view numerous times.

In this blog post, I describe my experiences with photographing from Schwabacher Landing.

GPS Coordinates for Schwabacher Landing: N 43°42.69600′, W 110°40.23217′

Schwabacher Landing is one of the best places in Grand Teton National Park to photograph a sunrise illuminating the Teton range. (Keep in mind that the Teton range is an east-facing mountain range – which lends itself very nicely for some spectacular dawn and early morning photography). If you come here for sunrise, be sure to take a headlamp or flashlight.

From Jackson Hole, drive up about 20-25 minutes along Highway 191 until you reach a sign on the left marking the turnoff for “Schwabacher Landing.” The sign is about three miles north of Moose Junction. Turn left onto the road. The gravel road (no 4×4 is required on this one) drops down the hill, to the level of the Snake River. The road ends at a small parking lot. A trail leads down to the edge of the river, specifically a collection of beaver ponds.

Beaver Pond and Dam, Schwabacher Landing - Autumn

In the first beaver pond you come to (not far after starting at the parking lot), you can get a great view of the beaver dam that the beavers have been busy maintaining. It is quite impressive that such a little creature as a beaver can be so skillful at constructing such a feat of engineering as a beaver dam. You can take some great pictures here, and in some of the other nearby beaver ponds.

However, there is a much better spot for your tripod if you follow the trail north about a quarter mile or so. Here, there is a wide spot in the pond with a clearing in the woods offering a perfect view of the Teton range. It is best to come here when the wind is calm or even non-existent. If it is a windy day, there will be ripples in the pond created by the wind, and there will be distortion in the perfect reflection of the Teton range casted on the beaver pond. Sunrise and early morning are usually good bets for no wind.

Schwabacher Landing - Autumn

Move around a little bit until you get the perfect composition. From this specific location, the clearing in the area where you can setup your tripod and still get that perfect composition is small – about 6-7 photographers squeezed in can get this perfect composition. The rest have to file in around the edges or behind the first row of photographers. As a result, you really have to plan ahead and come early to secure the best tripod spot here – especially during the peak fall photography season in the park. If you miss out on the best tripod location and the perfect composition, that means you have to come back here the next morning and do it all over.

I’ve photographed from this location in Schwabacher Landing a number of times, and I have had a good mix of shooting conditions while doing so. In summer of 2009, I shot this view once, producing the image above that started this blog post. I photographed Schwabacher Landing many more times during my visit in autumn of 2009. One of my visits produced the image directly above.

One night during my autumn 2009 Grand Teton photography trip, an early season snow storm dumped a fresh layer of snow in the park. I awoke in my Jackson motel around 4:00 a.m., and looked outside to find clear night skies. I thought that sunrise was going to be fantastic. I gathered my gear and set out about an hour and a half before first light in freezing 18ºF degree weather. When I arrived at Schwabacher Landing, it was pitch black. I waited in my car, and soon after, another photographer arrived. We both descended down into the beaver ponds together. It was still pitch black, the only light available came from our headlamps. Being the first people to arrive at such a location in darkness, we didn’t know what to expect. We finally arrived at the main beaver pond – the one with the clearing in the woods and got set up. We were talking about what to expect as the first rays of sunlight would appear behind us and illuminate the Teton range, and more photographers showed up. We had a good group present, representing different areas of the United States. (I was the only one from California). We shared stories about other popular photography locations around the United States, and shared hints for photographing Grand Teton NP – in particular, where animals like moose have been spotted in the past day or two. There was still snow on the ground, and when the sun started to come out, it got a little warmer – 22ºF. Everything was in place that morning for a perfect shot: snow on the trees, reflection in the beaver pond, dramatic clouds, even a small ray of sunlight for a few minutes. The only thing that was missing was a view of the Cathedral Group of the Teton range – it was obscured by clouds.

Sunrise at Schwabacher Landing - Autumn

We waited and waited, but the clouds wouldn’t let up on the Cathedral Group. But the scene was majestic nonetheless, and I snapped a few other shots. The snow-covered trees mixed right in with trees exhibiting fall colors, producing some unique shots – a fall scene exhibiting a hint at winter.

Morning at Schwabacher Landing - Autumn

As we waited for more light and the clouds to let up a little (they never really did that morning), I noticed a little creature rummaging around in the brush behind us. It was one of Schwabacher Landing’s resident beavers. He was really busy gathering up materials for some repairs (I assume) to his beaver dam. He went back and forth many times while we were there, carrying materials, swimming in the pond right in front of us, coming up onto the land, etc… He was way to busy to stop for a proper photo session, but we got shots of him anyway – paparazzi style.

Busy Like a Beaver, Schwabacher Landing

Beavers are not the only creatures that you can find at Schwabacher Landing. I’ve heard stories of people photographing moose swimming in the main beaver pond with the Tetons in the background (a very unique shot, and it is rare to have every element in perfect place in a composition). Great Blue Herons are even known to hang out in Schwabacher Landing. I saw one during my autumn 2009 trip – several times. Stay tuned for that story.

Great Blue Heron, Schwabacher Landing

Bald Eagle, Spotted in the Madison River area, along the West Entrance Road to Yellowstone National Park, Montana/Wyoming, USA

GPS Coordinates for Bald Eagle’s Nest: N 44º39.964′, W 110º 59.299′

Clicking on each photo in this blog posting opens that photo’s page on my portfolio/gallery site in a new window.

Yellowstone National Park’s wildlife is amazing – awe-inspiring and unparalleled in any of the lower 48 states. As I wrote in my official Yellowstone and Grand Teton Wildlife portfolio, the massive Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (of which Yellowstone National Park is the centerpiece) is one of the largest intact temperate-zone ecosystems on Earth. The millions of visitors who visit the GYE every year have the amazing opportunity to point a telephoto lens, spotting scope, or set of binoculars at wild grizzly bears, bison, moose, bald eagles, elk, wolves, and other wildlife. Bison roam the park’s roads along with cars, grizzly bears can be seen yards away from the road, etc… Much more can be said about Yellowstone’s wildlife, but you get the idea. This is not a petting zoo, but the real thing.

This past summer (in July 2009, to be exact – during my recent Yellowstone visit), visitors arriving in the park via West Yellowstone, MT (through the West Entrance Road) did not have to wait long to experience their first wildlife encounter. These visitors were given a real treat: a bald eagle’s nest, just yards from the road.

Bald Eagle in Her Nest, Spotted in the Madison River area, along the West Entrance Road to Yellowstone National Park, Montana/Wyoming, USA

On my first night in Yellowstone, I took a quick stroll through the park, because I had nothing more interesting to do, and I thought it would be good to get my bearings in where I would be spending the next week. Not only did I see the mosquitos along the Madison River that parallels the West Entrance Road, but I also got to see this humungous nest up high on a dead tree located to the side of the road. The nest was empty at the time, but I made a mental note to keep an eye out. Something big had to live in it.

The next morning, my first full day in Yellowstone, I saw it: a bald eagle perched up high on on a tree limb, keeping an eye open in the forest and Madison River below (presumably for fish). I was in awe. I had never come that close to a bald eagle before. I can’t find the words to describe the feeling, but the sight of a bald eagle in the wild was magnificent. I parked my car (carefully, of course), off to the side of the road, and got to work trying to photograph it. I had a rented a Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM lens for the trip. I put it on, but felt that it did not give me enough power. I decided to try on the Canon Extender EF 1.4x II. Although I lost my auto-focus, and took everything I got, I got some pretty decent shots that day.

For the entire week I was touring Yellowstone, on every day’s morning drive from my West Yellowstone, MT hotel into the park, the bald eagle was there. Sometimes in her nest, and sometimes not in her nest, but rather somewhere else.

One day, the crowd of wildlife watchers and I got to see something unique. That morning, the nest was empty. I decided to stop by anyway, to camp out to see if I would get a glimpse of the bald eagle flying back into its nest. In just a short time, a baby bald eagle (eaglet) raised its head from out of the nest. It started calling out to something in the distance. All of a sudden, the mother bald eagle was noticed on the other side of the Madison River on a hilltop tree (you could see her only with binoculars/scope/telephoto lens), and she began calling out to her baby. Her baby then tried to fly, but couldn’t.

Bald Eaglet, Spotted in the Madison River area, along the West Entrance Road to Yellowstone National Park, Montana/Wyoming, USA

Bald Eaglet, Spotted in the Madison River area, along the West Entrance Road to Yellowstone National Park, Montana/Wyoming, USA

When the show was over, I packed up my car, and drove a little further up the road into the park. A lot of people were stopped by with binoculars glancing at the sky (and of course the elk across the Madison River). I stopped by, and for some time, we saw the same bald eagle, flying in the area round the Madison River. It was quite a sight to see it flying! Unfortunately, I was not set up to photograph birds in flight, and everything was happening so quickly, but I nonetheless took the best picture I could of the bald eagle in flight:

Bald Eagle in Flight (This unprocessed RAW photo is only found here. It is NOT included in my gallery, as I did not process it due to quality issues. It is here for story-telling purposes only.)

Most of the pictures I took of the bald eagle were at 560mm – the maximum focal length allowed by putting a 100-400mm and 1.4 teleconverter together. I handheld some of these shots, especially the first ones I took, but later in the week opted to use my tripod.

On my last day in Yellowstone, as I drove through the park en route to Grand Teton National Park, traffic resembled that of my home of Los Angeles. The road was backed up for miles, almost (but not quite) all the way to the West Entrance Station, with traffic waiting to get a chance to see the magnificent sight of this bald eagle. With all the attention the bald eagles were getting, it came as no surprise to learn that Yellowstone officials designated this area an Eagle Management Area (see note below).

Bald Eagle, Spotted in the Madison River area, along the West Entrance Road to Yellowstone National Park, Montana/Wyoming, USA

For more photos of the resident bald eagle along Yellowstone’s West Entrance Road, and photos of other wildlife, see my Yellowstone and Grand Teton Wildlife gallery.

Note: These pictures were taken before word really spread about the eagle’s nest in the park. At the time, there were no special restrictions in effect, other than the standard wildlife viewing restrictions in place throughout the park. My understanding is that later that area of the West Entrance Road was designated as an Eagle Management Area, and additional restrictions were implemented for the safety of the bald eagles, as well as motorists and visitors on foot.

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from Artist Point, an HDR

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (“Canyon”) is the second most widely photographed sight in Yellowstone, after, of course, Old Faithful Geyser. It is here that one can find the dramatic walls of the canyon carved out by the Yellowstone River, as well as the spectacular Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River. Many say that if Yellowstone National Park only contained the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, then it would still be enough to grant the massive park National Park status. Luckily for the visitor and photographer, there are plenty of things to see.

The Canyon and its features can be viewed from numerous viewpoints from both its north and south rims. The Yellowstone Association publishes a Trail Guide entitled “Canyon Area Trail Guide” that describes in detail how the canyon was formed, its features, as well as its wildlife. More importantly for the visitor and photographer, it provides a detailed trail map, as well as information for both hiking and driving the Canyon, from both rims. It is available for a small donation at various ranger stations around the park, as well as around Canyon’s viewpoints and trails.

In this blog post, I describe my experiences with photographing the Canyon from one of the most popular viewpoints: Artist Point.

Artist Point

South Rim, GPS Coordinates: N 44° 43.263′, W 110° 28.762′

If the photographer must photograph the Canyon from only one location due to time or other constraints, this viewpoint located at the end of the South Rim Drive is it.  It is here that one can get one of the most photographed views in Yellowstone.  From the upper viewpoint, it is possible to view the Canyon in both directions.  Every single book and publication describes the view from Artist Point, but there is no substitute for seeing and experiencing the view for yourself: absorb the color and texture of the canyon, the roar of Lower Falls nearly a mile away, and the thrill of the rushing river below you.  The Yellowstone River thunders down 308 feet into the Canyon, making it one of the most impressive waterfalls in North America.  This is all yours to photograph here.

TIP: On a sunny day, somewhere between 9:30-10:15 a.m. or so, a rainbow appears at the bottom of the Lower Falls.  Artist Point is the perfect place to view this. This happens during the summer.  I cannot speak about other times of the year. A polarizer is essential to photograph this sight properly. Be sure to turn your polarizer until the colors of the rainbow appear strong and vivid.

My first visit to Artist Point was on July 14, 2009, around 10 a.m. The morning was cloudy. I was looking for the rainbow to appear just below Lower Falls, but I couldn’t find it. The clouds were not providing enough sunlight to make the rainbow appear. Despite getting some good overall shots of the Canyon, I vowed to try again to photograph the rainbow the next day.

Waiting for the Rainbow at Artist Point

I had more success the next day, July 15, 2009. Leaving my West Yellowstone, MT hotel after a very quick breakfast at 8 a.m., I arrived at Artist Point in the Canyon Area around 9:30 a.m. It was a much better day to photograph the Canyon from Artist Point: the skies were blue, and the sun was shining brightly. I set up my tripod and waited. Just around 9:52 a.m., the first colors of the rainbow started to appear below Lower Falls. By 10:00 a.m., the rainbow was clearly visible, and the other photographers who also decided to come out on this beautiful day to look for the rainbow, were busy clicking their shutters.

The above three unprocessed RAW exposures show the appearance of the rainbow: the first photo was taken at 9:52 a.m., the second at 9:53 a.m., and the third at 9:58 a.m. The third image above was made into my final processed product, which appears below:

A rainbow appears below Lower Yellowstone Falls during the summer around 10.a.m. at Artist Point.

By around 10:05 a.m., the rainbow had disappeared, and I was off to photograph other areas of Yellowstone National Park. Was it worth coming back the second day to get a more interesting photo of the Lower Falls? Definitely.

As said before, numerous viewpoints exist from where one can view and photograph the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.  In subsequent blog posts, I plan to discuss some of these.

One last shot…

Lower Falls, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from Artist Point

One of the questions that I am asked the most is where some of the best places are to get a good composition of Los Angeles’ photogenic skyline or its sprawling metropolis.  I’ve always liked to keep some of these locations a secret, but in this blog post I reveal where my favorite places are.

This is by no means a complete list.  Everybody has their favorites, and possibly even different than mine.

1. Griffith Park

Los Angeles from Griffith Park

How to get here: Very simple.  From Los Feliz Boulevard, near the entrance to Griffith Park, follow the signs that lead you to the Observatory. [Google Maps]

Notes: This photo location is probably the most well known. Travel up the hill to the Observatory for the best views.  Really work the area.  Lots of different photo opportunities exist here.  Toward the west of the Griffith Observatory area, there are some great views of the Hollywood sign.  If you go upstairs above the Observatory building, you can get some great views of downtown Los Angeles with the sprawl that is Hollywood and the Miracle Mile leading away from it.  It is also good to try to get some architectural elements of the Observatory building in the frame as you take a picture.  This will give further interest to your photo. To the east of the Griffith Observatory area, you get get some great views of the Glendale area, and even of the San Gabriel Valley if it’s a clear day.  I like to do a couple of panoramas around the upstairs of the building.

Recommended time of day: Anytime.  But, you can get some amazing shots here at night that show the lights of the sprawling metropolis underneath you.

2. Hollywood Bowl Overlook on Mulholland Drive

Los Angeles from the Hollywood Bowl Overlook

How to get here: From the 101 Freeway north of Hollywood, get off on Barham Boulevard, then make a left to go over the freeway.  Turn left on Cahuenga, and follow it until you get to Mulholland Drive on your right.  Take a right onto Mulholland Drive and go up the hill.  The overlook will be on your left-hand side.  Look for the parking lot with cars and tour buses. [Google Maps]

Notes: This photo location seems to be more popular with out-of-town tourists than it is with the locals.  The Hollywood Bowl Overlook (named because you can see the Bowl under you), was built for the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics.  This is the classic shot of the Hollywood Freeway with the Los Angeles skyline in the background.  The location can get very crowded very quickly. All the tour companies working in the Hollywood area like to bring their tourists up here to snap a picture or two.  This is a great place, again, to work the area.  Some great views can be had from here.  Take a picture from the parking area, but for the best views, follow the stairs up to a viewing platform where you can take in views of both Los Angeles and the Hollywood sign.

Recommended time of day: Can be visited anytime during the day.  But for the most interesting compositions, position your tripod on the viewing platform area around sunset (the golden hour).  As the lights begin to turn on in some of the downtown skyscrapers, long exposures create streams of light on the cars, and there is still some light left to show the detail in the city’s urban landscape and the color of the sky. The location closes its gates after sunset, so it is not possible to visit here after the sun has already set.

3. Kenneth Hahn State Recreation Area

Los Angeles from the Kenneth Hahn State Recreation Area

How to get here: This location is not so very well known, as it is far out of the way tucked in a place where you would never think to look.  Take the I-10 freeway west towards Santa Monica.  Take the South La Brea Avenue exit.  Go south on La Brea Avenue, until you come to Kenneth Hahn State Recreation Area.  Turn right on Stocker Street, then right on South La Cienega Boulevard, then turn into the main entrance to the Recreation Area.  Inside the park can get a little confusing, but generally you want to follow the road into the park uphill until you get to the top and there is a parking area.  There is a little park at the top with grass and benches with the best views of the skyline.  It is best to see the map – the marker points out the exact location: [Google Maps]

Notes: With a 70-200mm set closer to 200mm, you get get a shot like the one above of the downtown Los Angeles skyline with the San Gabriel Mountains in the background.  If you come here in the winter or spring, when the San Gabriels have snow on them, it would make for an interesting shot.

Recommended time of day: Anytime during the day.  Unfortunately, the last time I checked, the Recreation Area was not open after sunset.

4. Park Row Drive, Overlooking the Pasadena Freeway

Los Angeles from Park Row Drive

How to get here: This particular location is a very tricky one to find. There are a few approaches, but here is one: coming from the 110-N, take the Solano Avenue/Academy Road exit.  Continue on Solano Avenue until you reach North Broadway.  Turn left onto North Broadway, then continue a very short distance until you reach a little street called Casanova Street.  Turn left onto Casanova Street.  Continue, then turn right onto North Park Row Drive.  Continue up the hill until you are on the bridge over the freeway.  One does not run into this location by accident.  You have to know what it is you’re looking for to find it.  Take care in driving some of these streets, as they can be very narrow.  Return the way you came. [Google Maps]

Notes: This is a very classic shot, and I’ve seen it on the cover of a number of maps along the years.  The most interesting view is from the bridge looking south, with the Pasadena Freeway leading into the downtown Los Angeles skyscrapers at a distance.

Recommended time of day: Anytime.  The above photo was taken in the evening.  One can probably get some very interesting night photos here, but I would take extra care when in this neighborhood at night, as it is pretty secluded.  Just everyday common sense.